Popularity: 15% [?]

 Part Two - Celebration in The City of Lights, Paris France.

What an enjoyable moment it is to receive, as the travel agent, notice that your customers were fully satisfied with the travel arrangements made for their trip. I’m delighted to introduce Eric Birk & Bernadette Hoke, who are both established concert artists (organ & piano) living in New York City. It gives me great pleasure to post the Travel Journal - Part Two, of their first trip to Paris France.

Novembre 2007

Continued from  (part 1)

Sunday–  Mass at St. Sulpice!  10:15 Prelude was Bach’s Prelude & Fugue in C (BWV 545), the Offertoire was L. Marchand’s “Basse de trompette,” during communion was Communion sur le répons “ubi caritas,” , and the Postlude was Toccata by J. Lechat.  After the postlude was the “Audition” (not that the organist needs to audition– this means music for listening!), when two movements (2nd & 3rd) of the Widor 5th Symphony were played, followed by improvisation.  

Afterwards, we got to climb the circular stairs to the “sud tour” (south tower) and greet Daniel Roth. He showed us how the organ’s combinations work and (rightfully) bragged about how, thanks to Widor and Dupré, the original actions and mechanisms survive as they were in 1862!  The organ sounded wonderful (except for the seasonally expected intonation irregularities) and he improvised for a full 10 minutes after the postlude and the conclusion of the “audition” following the 10:30 mass (which serves as a prelude for the low mass at noon). We had to wait a awhile but it was worth it to participate on the public side of the tradition begun by Dupré of greeting listeners in the organ gallery after mass.  [But we honestly can’t imagine entertaining at the console every Sunday after services with as much grace and joie de vivre as Mr. Roth!]

After mass, we had to find dejeuner (lunch), and eventually wound up at a café just a block from the Seine in Saint Germain-des-Pres, where Bernadette had an omelette and Eric got onion soup with bread and cheese in it, followed by a chocolate crepe.  

Then we went to a museum, the Musée d’Orsay, where many works by impressionist painters & sculptors are displayed.  It is in a former train station, and it was free!

You can see that the building is as beautiful to behold as its contents!

Then it was off to find St. Clothilde, where Franck, Tournimiere and Langlais all played.  You would think there was some sort of anti-publicity conspiracy: no one we asked had ever heard of the church. (Hotel concierge, newstand clerk, etc.) Imagine!– the church where Franck played!  We finally found it with an address gathered from our hotel concierge via internet, and when we arrived, there was a rather intense neighborhood pick-up soccer game in progress on the front plaza.  On entering, we saw a brilliant basilica church with no mention of any music program or who the current organist is.  (One plaque mentions Franck.)

From there, we walked to find the Church of the Madeleine and seek out dinner possibilities and witnessed some lovely autumn vistas around the Seine: 

-Right Bank on the left (the Louvre) & Notre Dame & Left Bank on the right-

Monday: The Louvre 

End of Day Two - written & photographed by Eric Birk.

We hope you’ll also enjoy the hyper-links provided, particularly the ones offering great moments with Daniel Roth at the magnificent Cavaille-Coll Organ. 

Part Three will be added Tuesday,  February 26.

Reminder: Monthly Vacation Contest Drawing will be held on the fourth Friday.

Popularity: 15% [?]